New York Times opines on D/FW food

In its endless search for Super Bowl stories, the New York Times dispatched its restaurant critic Sam Sifton to the area to sample local restaurants. There's something in his story to offend just about everyone around here, but, as for me, I loved it.
First, I imagine a lot of folks in Arlington are not going to be all that happy with his description of their town as " this drab, featureless city," which, if you're being objective, is a perfect description of that drab. featureless city.

He did say there was "plenty to cheer" about our area eateries, but one thing I was glad to see was that he was not enamored of the much overrated Sonny Bryan's Barbecue. Why folks around here think that place is so special is beyond me. Sifton described the brisket at Sonny Bryan's as "dry, flavorless," but he did seem to like a place called Smoke, of which I am completely unfamiliar. He also liked another barbecue joint in Dallas that I'm not familiar with called Mac's, of which he wrote:

"The brisket is hugely flavorful, with a rich crust and a melting interior. The ribs — “dirty old things,” (owner Billy) McDonald called them — are sweet. His kielbasa will be manna for some number of Pittsburgh fans used to the flavors of Eastern Europe. But it is the moist and smoky turkey that astonishes."

He also talks about the flavorful taco stands he found along "Industrial Boulevard," which should drive the local officials who insist this street, which does not front a river, be called Riverfront Boulevard.

Among the places Sifton really liked are Nonna, Babe's Chicken Dinner House in Roanoke ("New York has nothing to compare with the excellence of Babe’s fried chicken. It has a shatteringly crisp and salty exterior, not at all greasy, that gives way to meat of amazing juiciness in both breast and thigh."), and Fearing's ("terrific eating").

Interestingly enough, except for Industrial's tacos,. Sifton didn't seem to visit any of our local Tex-Mex joints. Interesting.